BODY LIFT INSTALLATION

A body lift is one of the most misunderstood upgrades in the off-road world. It doesn’t raise ground clearance — the frame, axles, and diff stay at stock height. What it does is push the body up, opening the wheel wells and giving you room to run tires that would otherwise rub. On body-on-frame platforms like the Tacoma, Tundra, Frontier, or 4Runner, it’s a targeted, cost-effective way to clear larger rubber without a full suspension overhaul.

What does a body lift actually do for tire fitment?

Each inch of body lift creates roughly an inch of additional clearance between the tire and the inner fender or body. A 2” body lift on a Tacoma, for example, can push you from a 31” to a 33” tire without touching the suspension. Combined with a leveling kit, you can often clear 33–34” tires on a mid-size truck for far less cost than a comparable suspension lift.

The important limitation: because the frame and suspension don’t move, articulation, approach angles, and departure angles don’t improve. Body lifts are a tire fitment tool, not a trail capability upgrade. If you want both, pair a modest suspension lift with a 1” body lift for maximum clearance.

Which vehicles are candidates for a body lift?

Only body-on-frame vehicles can run a body lift — the design requires a separate frame and body with bolt-on mounts. This includes Toyota Tacoma, Tundra, older 4Runner (up to third gen), Nissan Frontier, Xterra, and Armada, and full-size American trucks. Unibody vehicles like the Subaru Outback or Lexus GX (fourth gen) are not candidates.

The Porsche Cayenne is also unibody and not suitable for a body lift. For those platforms, a suspension lift or leveling kit is the correct approach. Franklin Overland will confirm fitment before recommending any lift strategy.

What components are replaced or modified during a body lift?

Body lift kits replace the factory body mount bushings with taller blocks — typically made from high-density polyurethane. The radiator, fan shroud, and steering shaft may need spacers or extensions depending on the lift height. At 3”, shift linkage extensions are often required on manual-transmission trucks. All of this is included in a quality body lift kit.

Bumper gaps are a cosmetic side effect of body lifts — the bumper stays at frame height while the body rises. Some owners address this with bumper drop brackets. Franklin Overland handles all ancillary adjustments so the finished install is clean, not jury-rigged.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a body lift cost compared to a suspension lift?

Body lift kits typically run $200–$600 in parts — significantly less than a quality suspension lift. They’re also faster to install. If your primary goal is tire fitment on a budget, a body lift is worth considering.

 

Does a body lift require an alignment?

No. Because suspension geometry doesn’t change, a standard four-wheel alignment isn’t required after a body lift alone. If you’re combining a body lift with a leveling kit or suspension lift, alignment is required for that portion of the work.

Will a body lift affect my truck's towing capacity?

A properly installed body lift doesn’t change towing capacity. The frame, hitch, and drivetrain remain at factory height. Tow ratings are tied to the chassis — which the body lift doesn’t touch.

 

 

Can I combine a body lift with a suspension lift?

Yes, and it’s a common combo for owners who want maximum tire size without spending on a 4″+ suspension kit. A 2.5″ suspension lift plus a 1–2″ body lift can fit 35″ tires on a Tacoma for less than a full 4″ suspension build.

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